News that rare and valuable pieces of Pringle knitwear produced in the Borders have gone on display at the National Museum of Scotland must have had kids the length and breadth of Scotland raiding wardrobes for dad’s old golfing jumpers.
The exhibition marking the 200th anniversary of Pringle of Scotland traces the history of the company from its beginning as an undergarment manufacturer in Hawick.
The textiles industry is, of course, an integral component of Scotland’s manufacturing output, with around 450 firms employing 17,000 people and making up 5.7% of the sector.
One man who knows this business inside out is Colin Brown, Managing Director at Ingles Buchan Textiles and Anthony Haines Textiles.
Ingles Buchan is an established family firm, which has its roots in the long tradition of weaving for which the Scottish borders is famed. Anthony Haines weaves tartan and tweed fabric from the Selkirk Mill, which Ingles Buchan then manufactures as a product and distributes worldwide from its Glasgow base.
As though this wasn’t enough for one man, Colin is also the “collector” for the Incorporation of Weavers of Glasgow and a trustee for the Scottish Tartans Authority.
This, evidently, is a true man of the cloth, so to speak.
And he’s not afraid to speak his mind. Asked about the current state of the textiles industry in Scotland, he replies:
“There has been a massive surge in cheap imitations coming in from China and India, which has had a negative impact on our industry. This has resulted in many mills closing. There used to be between 60 and 70 mills actively weaving in Scotland. There are now only seven weaving commercially.
“On the positive side, the remaining mills have never been busier, along with the dyers and finishers!”
Colin firmly believes it is heritage and a skilled workforce that makes Scotland stand out from other world competitors. He says:
“Tartan and tweeds are our national fabric and this is highly coveted by fashion designers worldwide.”
There are, however, challenges ahead.
“For employers the main challenge is training young people in the skills required to weave,” says Colin. “There are many skills needed, such as weavers, knotters, darners, warpers, tuners.
“Glasgow Clyde College is fast gaining the reputation as the textile centre for excellence. Perhaps that’s the first place to start, to see which part of the industry best fits your skill attributes.
“We have just taken on a young person through the apprenticeship scheme being run in the Borders.”
Another challenge is replacing old plant with new modern looms. According to Colin, many mills have suffered from a lack of investment over many years.
For those seeking employment, one other concern is that, although there are skilled jobs, some are relatively low paid.
“However, we should remember this is a skill for life,” says Colin. “You are also creating a product and cloth which is unique to Scotland.
“There are also many jobs within the industry. Not just on the mill floor but in the design department, in sales, in logistics . . . the list of associated roles is endless!”
Colin’s own ambition for 2015 is to secure funding to purchase two new looms costing £160,000.
“This would allow us to increase our production capacity by 30%. Also I’m working with various other mills to try to get an Act of Parliament passed to protect Scottish Tartan.
“And I’m working with the Scottish Government and Scottish Tartans Authority to secure a National Tartan Centre for our nation.”
Well plaid, that man, indeed!